Quality custom & restoration sheet metal work & repair
Next the front tie rod one bung was installed & welded in place then it was test fit & marked for cut length with the brake calipers set at 1/16 toe in for start, then the other bung was installed & welded in place. Then the welds were ground clean.
At present it is set at 100 inch wheel base so a 2 inch move forward is simple to do still, it will be triple checked for square with the frames and axels fixed mount points. The rear inner tubs will be cut out to match the outer fender lines. The rear fenders are bolted on same as the fronts.
Upper shock hoop installed.
Both front lower links were marked for length, cut then the front bung was tack welded in place.
Passenger seat mount area needing repair.
Now for the front axel mount & bump stop jig saw puzzle to put together both left & right.
I took a break from the suspension & did some filler welding on the left front fender not finished yet but closer.
The upper 3rd link was cut to length & tack welded in place, the front link mount is tack welded to the steel anchor area you don't want to weld to the cast iron housing. .
Temporary mounting the nitrogen canisters getting ready to put in storage.
The axel is set at 8 degrees per Genright.
They are fully welded and ground clean for a smooth clean look.
Same for the rear axel mounts.
The shocks fit great & no movement bind just like its supposed to be. I love it when a plan comes together.
A crack needs welding in a body mount section.
Painted with rust preventative paint.
I am using Genright's 3 link front suspension kit this is the front frame link mount.
Front suspension will be upgraded.
Drivers rocker sill & floor area will need some attention.
Back side of boat rail.
The left side tail light & gas filler holes need filling.
Both sides were painted with rust preventative paint then installed on the chassis just tack welded for now.
The front was notched to go around the front fender.
After all the suspension arms are checked for fit & no binding in movement then they will be fully welded & ground clean. For a smooth look.
If you wish to discuss your current or up coming car or truck project please feel free to call Shop Phone 425 433 0294 Small projects to major turn key builds
Rear suspension will be up graded.
Every thing is nice and parallel.
Fabing up some underside body to boat rail mounts.
The welds are ground smooth & clean.
Fitting & clamping the right side steel plate over the stock panel.
The tail light patch fully welded, ground clean then painted with rust preventative paint.
The 2 puzzle's welded together then the exposed welds ground clean.
I rattle can the bare metal with rust preventative paint for storage.
Now its time to install the boat rails.
The old front and rear suspension are out
Lot of other tears & holes will be repaired in the floor area.
The manufacturer calls these boat rails test fitting & tweaking the front end for fit.
Every ting is cleaned up.
It has some previously repaired damage.
The back sides were prepped & coated with rust preventative paint.
Now its time to rough cut away the old suspension mounts.
Floor pans have cracks, tears & holes needing attention.
The right hoop is welded in place.
Both front link & bump stop mounts are set level at the bump stop pad then tack welded in place.
Getting them ready for replacements.
Next was the steering drag link basic same process as the cross link other then it needs to be centered when cut to length & arms are paralell so no bump steer, notice Genrights custom made pitman arm very stout.
The cross link is cut & welded.
At one time linex was installed it will all be removed.
A filler piece was made to fill the gap between the 2 panels then fully welded & ground for a clean look.
It's Chassis time.
Welds were cleaned up for a smooth look.
The front axel is moved forward another 2 inches to the new 102 inch wheel base for a total of a 8.6 inch stretch.
The owner supplied new after market steel plates for left & right rear panels & the driver side gas filler hole needed to be filled.
Its weld it up time lots of small welds to keep the distortion down.
Also welded from the bottom side.
Right side tail light hole will be filled.
The cross link mount was fully welded after checking all movements in the suspension turning plus up & down, lots of clerance & no binding. I love it when a plan comes together.
Lots of grinding, welding & more grinding to give a factory look smooth tansition.
The lower shock mount is jig fixture welded to the axel & the upper is jig fixture welded to the hoop.
The body has a 1 inch lift kit so I had to make spacers for the core support.
Genright's gussets fit perfectly.
A new repair section was made & getting ready to weld in place.
The lower & 3rd link mount assembly in tacked place on the main frame rail.
Ends capped to keep moisture out.
Now installing the left rear panel section.
The manufacture normally recommends bolting these on not here they are fully welded plus plug welded on the inside for an overall clean look.
Genright also supplied this custom made fuel tank & rock guard which will have to be mounted before the rear end goes in for clearance reasons.
I made up end flanges for the center bar to make it removable.
The front suspension is realy taking shape.
Now its time for the rear four link, I removed all of the old factory brackets & its time to install the new Genright made units. These are the fronts well made an a great fit no mods needed.
The owner says the new wheels & tires will be 37/38 inches in diameter manufactures spec so I have raised & blocked the chassis for ride height for that diameter tires, now its time to remove the old suspension & start getting ready for the new totally revamped front & rear suspension..
Along with the chassis the fenders are set level.
My buddy keith at Genright say's if you have a 1/4 inch clerance with moving arms you have a mile well I have about a fat 3/8 of an inch so I am golden.
Both front fender seams will be welded.
Front & rear differential install time, they are set at ride height for the new on order wheels and 38 inch tall tires.
The front cross link bar mount is reinforce capped on the out side.
The axel is set at 8 degrees castor as per Genright instructions.
Fitting the new front fenders
When putting this puzzle together you have to remember the parts are the same but the top plate, front plate and support gusset are opposite from left to right. A little tricky you just have to pay attention.
Its on the ground & fully roll able.
The right anchor bracket is tacked in place now I can mark & cut the link to length.
Under side mount fit & welded to boat rail.
I had to add these 2 pieces to the left frame mount they came in the kit. This section will be the 3rd link mount going to the differential center section. Very nicely built parts.
Fully welded & ground clean.
Both rear fenders where then mounted
Both canisters were welded to the chassis.
The rear four link bars were trimmed to length and the other hime joints were tack welded in place.
I had to rework the rear crossmember just behind the differential to be able to install the tank.
Our friends at Genright Off Road supplied these monstrous Dynatrac 60 series front & rear axels custom built to take all the power we could put to them with disc brakes on all 4 corners. Talk to my buddy Keith at 805 584 8635 if you want the best.
1x2 steel tube was cut & end capped then welded in place under the factory rubber mounts for a clean look
Two 1 inch solid rubber blocks were cut for the center mount.
This is the way I picked up the jeep the customer has done all the disassembly work.
The stock wheel base on the jeep was 93.4 inches it will be stretched to 102 inches about 3 inches of that to the rear & the rest to the front. My buddy Keith at Genright says 102 to 103 is the best for ride & heading for the hills rock climbing approach angle.
Reworking the replacement door sill panel to have the correct shape & contours.
Time to install the bump stop canisters Genright recommend about 2 inches bump stop to axel for decent travel so I set the canister at 3 1/4 inches.
The rear shock towers were mocked up so I could mark & notch the frame it was the trimmed to length & fully welded along with plug welding the center.
Upper shock mount hoop ancor plates welded to the frame.
The right side is ready to be drilled & bolted on.
Wiring retainers removed from the old sill & welded in place.
Welded & ground clean.
Both of the rear quarter panel covers, front fenders & boat rails are of top quality & very good fit. They are manufactured to be bolted on but the owner wanted a more show & go look so that is why they are welded & ground clean. The parts are manufactured by
Genright Off Road
Phone 805 584 8635
Ask for Keith tell him where you got the phone number.
1991 Jeep YJ A bunch of sheet metal & chassis work in stages over time as the customers budget allows.
Gas filler fully welded & ground clean then checked for fit.
Support gussits were added.
Both rear fenders were pre mounted so the inside wheel opening could be marked then cut out.
I also had to install & weld in longer rear mount bolts. This is a heavy unit not easy to move around.
The front link hime joints are huge & the tube is stout. The rear bungs were tack welded in the tubes.
Welded & ground clean.
The top & roll bar were removed for better access to do the repairs.
Welded & ground clean.
Cut them out.
I cut some angle iron for temporary roll ride mounts.
Genright's cross link mount is well built & designed for fit nice piece.
It turns lock to lock smooth as butter.
A pair of the 4 link bars with the front hime joint tack welded in place.
Left rear quarter damage hammer & dollied out.
Now for the cross stabilizer link mount tacked in place
Getting ready to mount the door sill section.
The center is bent & fit to clear the fan.
Just some of the brackets cut off more to go.
Crack in the wheel tub corner.
Next I fit the front cross bar mounts.
I lowered the axel down enough to install the bump stop cartridge's I have a shi 2 1/8 inch bump stop travel.
Due to the owner deciding to join the military all the rear suspension axel mounts will just be tack welded in place. Due to not knowing what final motor & transmission will be used. As it was also to be changed so it can make a difference in the pinion angle. It will be easer to just clip the tack welds to rotate the rear end if nessasary or just finish welding if not needed later.
Cleaning up all the left over no longer needed bracketery after cutting them off with the plasma cutter.
It also had to be notched for a nice body fitment.
With the front mount in place & having the 4 link bars semi built I can place the lower axel mounts.
After final trimming the new panel was clamped into place fully welded then ground clean for a factory look, due to the previous accident the door opening had to be stretched out so the factory steel door would fit with the approiate gaps.