Standard 289 motor mounts the frame part will need to be built. 

304 stainless 5/8 OD tubing I will be using for the new grill it will have a British flare to it.

More of the old firewall was removed.

​One end with the stop in place I will add set screw to hold in place.

Now with the suttle wheel arch rework and the rolled lip I now have decent tire clerarence on both sides.

​I welded in the reinforecment

​Flying Hillman extremely rare.

​I did the right side wheel lip to match the left.

​Getting real close.

​I formed the 3/8 round rod to the shape of the left wheel arch.

Laser rust removal time.

Adjustment plate mocked up, the old adjustment slots will be filled.

​I did say its quirky wright this interior is just plain fun and the wife loves it just needs some more padding to be added.

The reason for more touch up welding is a metal finished look.

​The front suspension back under car set square in place, and bolted to the table.

The body is now locked down solid to the chassis table at ride height the bottom of the rocker sills are 4 1/2 inches in the front and 5 1/2 inches at the rear . The front crossmember is bolted to the table centered in the wheel openings and square with the body and the front crossmember is also at its ride height with the lower control arms parallel with the table aka ground. The uppers will be set to proper angle.

I pulled the front crossmember out to make it easer to work on. Also do the filler pieces work.

​Suspension back together with the new extended studs hubs after more hammer and dolly work.

​Inside of arch cleaned up.

Rear Kumho 225 x15 tires on The Rota RB wheels Miata rear cross member mock up pre measure before building new custom IRS unit.

More work on the left arch it's starting to look nice.

I am back on the Hillman some due to family health issues I haven't touched it in 5 months. Hope full some progress every week. I now have the upper shock hats tack welded in place ,  but I will need to raise the spring cap area up due to the coil over height needed. The Miata spindles are 1 1/2 inches shorter then the Mustang   spindles so I had to lower the upper control arm pivot section to handle the shorter spindle height. But the coil over shock needs more height.


Right side is taking shape and tire clearance is pretty good now. I am really liking the looks of the reworked wheel archs

DOM tubing for building the rear independent suspension control arms.

​Some of the 2 1/2 x2 1//2 chassis material plus the inner body temporary bracing.

Painted the inside of the wheel arch and the reinforcement wire in zero rust.

Overhead shot its taking shape.

​New Headman headers.

​Back a while ago I bought this quirky little 4 passenger convertible its got some fun lines & its a 4 person convertible. I like different cars not cookie cuter types, its rare to top it off. It was made by the Roots group in England the same people that made the Sunbeam Tiger as in Ford American Powered V8. Humm this gets me thinking, it's in my shop under construction towards my original vision now. It is For Sale in as it is built at the time with all the parts I have for it and you can finish the build your self your way or have me finish it the way you would vision it.

​Formed wire laying inside arch final fit.

​Arch wire also painted in Zero Rust.

More body to table bracing added and now the left side sill clamps are removed so I can replace the rusted inner rocker sill for a stronger body mounting to frame area.

With some of the firewall and the floor pan skin removed it shows  x unibody under passenger compartment frame. It will all go away not only ugly but very rusty, it also hangs down below the rocker sill for less ground clearance.

I reworked the wheel lip opening moving the lip out about 1/2 inch for more tire clearance. A little more tweaking but getting close. I like the overall new look.

I bought a Ford 289, ah Tigers and Cobras come to mind.

​With the edge rolled over I gained some much wanted tire cleareance.

​A little more touch up welding.

Now for the right side first, I cut the old spring mount off then tack welded the ring, than fully weld the top side.

Trying to keep a little of the retro look I went with ​15 inch Rota RB wheels, a knock off of the optional Sunbeam Tiger wheels they fit the style of the car 8 inch front wheels with 195x50  tires & 9 1/2 in rear wheels with 225x50 Kumho tires with an aggressive tread & handling it was sitting high here not at ride height.


New 28 spline hubs for the Ford CV  axels from Martin at Monster Miata.

No tire rub but clearance is tight I will do some tweaking to the wheel arch but over all I am real happy with the look and the suspension adjustability.

​Just received the dom tubing for the hime joints for the front and rear sway bars to lower control arms.

​More welding right wheel arch.

Collapsible intermediate shaft

​The Mustang rack had to much travel so I machined up a couple of stops to put inside the rack. i found out that the internal stop location inside the rack is different so the stops are 2 different lengths.

​Setting on the frame jig table at ride height 4 1/2 inches front & 5 1/2 inches rear at the bottom of the rocker sills. Just a little bit of attitude base to start .

​A slot was cut for the new 3/8 thick upper adjustment plates more solid adjustability.

​The wheels and tires give it the look I was after

This Ford  8.8 28 spline aluminum IRS rear center section will be used 3.26 gears.

Just a little more tweaking than it will get installed on the inside.

​More welding and grinding on outside 

GM electric power assist steering..

​Started welding the right wheel arch.


I put the stock at present Miata brake rotors on for spacing at present the tires just barely clear the inner wheel lip​ but workable.  

​I have started tack welding the left side together.

Wheels and tires plus brake rotors in place nice fit and very clean look.

Edelbrock manifold I had as a 289 was the plan from the start.

​New hime joints for the front and rear sway bars

​Cleaning up welds on inside.

​Table change time.

I had this front crossmember with control arms and  rack left over from a previous project, so I re machined the Miata spindles to match the ball joints and the Mustang type tie rod ends. I will rework the Upper and lower spring pockets and adjust the upper mounts for the control arms  for the AFCO coil over shocks.​​

​Sold off the motor, trans , front & rear suspension. I am building custom front and a rear IRS suspension's using Miata hubs.

​I cleaned the inside of the right wheel arch.

Left side still need's some hammed and dolly work to match the right side.

Started forming the right arch inner support.

​The 1989 AOD transmission.

The old filler will be removed and where the rustmitse have been will be replaced with new metal later.

AFCO coil over shocks for the front and rear.

  Adjustment plates are welded in and the old slots filled now clean up.

 Re worked like the left side.

New CV axels and hubs together.

New 28 spline CV half shafts that will need to be shortened.

I reworked apiece of 1/4 in thick pipe to fit the coil spring cap rise 2 1/2 inches. then marked it for cutting. Old school lowering trick.

The lower control arms bushings were loose so I reworked some of the energy suspension bushings, I cut them down and shortened the steel inserts on my lathe.   I  Now no loose e goose​ a nice snug fit for a great handling suspension.

After I cut out the rest of the main floor pan and trimmed of the edges I have decided that the inner rockers are not looking to good also. With the new just set in place main outer rails there isn't a lot of good material to build off of, so its more temporary supports from the body to the frame table. Than remove the rusty thin inner rockers.

 ​If you wish to discuss this builder or one of my other builders or your possible project give me a call. If I don't answer leave a return phone number and message.

Phone 206 234 8032 Cell

​Danny Pascoe

New inner wire welded in and edge rolled over.

​Most of the pars and pieces to build the coil over independent rear suspension.

​Old filler will be replaced with new metal.

​One last thing I do have a Washington state title from the person I bought the car from never changed it.

MY high tec wire bending tools 2 bolts and 2 clamp bars dose the job.

Mocking things up and checking for fit to see if my measurements where close. This will make it easer to mount the Ford 289 and is about 5 inches narrower than the Miata front suspension which I would of had to do a lot of rework, much cleaner this way.

​I needed longer wheel studs.

Ground down the touch up welds.

The old very rusty x floor bracing is now gone its on the floor but still will need some more final trim work. Now I can start working on the main under floor chassis and the front frame rails.

Just enough tire clearance.

​Re assembled to ck all my measurements looks good. Nice clean looking front suspension now.

Next I fully welded the underside as the left was done.

​Borla stainless steel mufflers to give it that throaty sound.

​Inside of arch painted in Zero rust.

​I made a cardboard template of the potential reworked wheel lip and shape on the Left side.

I fired up my new Laser Rust and Paint  Stripping high tec machine and removed the rust down to the bare metal with out a bunch of  warpage like when sand blasting or media blasting, this part is now ready for zero rust paint protection and no media to clean up.

It will have a tilt column with electric assist power rack.​

After some minor adjustments the coil over is mounted on the right side. Its just tacked in place and will be fully finished, welded and ground clean.

​I cleaned up some 3/8 solid stock that will go in the inner lip of the front wheel arches.

Halogen headlights with turn signals in lower edge.

​A bunch more welding and grinding done and more to go on the left wheel arch. I really like the looks of the reworked arch a mild and suttle flair.

A ​traditional Nardi steering wheel will be used.

​If you have any thoughts or comments on this or any of my other projects please feel free to call me.

This little gem has a ton of possibility's

​I do have the soft top mechanism its folded down at present with a new not installed white top.

​A little bling for the engine.

The  stock wheel lip and with the air gap shows the reworked difference on right side

​The reinforced lip reinstalled.

​I like the overall look so far, it will just need's some minor wheel well arch rework for clearance I am thinking, I don't want to take away from the original look.

I put the grill back for temp looks might change later.

Inner wheel no longer touches the control arms.

I just received this universal splined ends sway bar and arms with mount brackets this will really help in the handling, and as usual a bunch of custom installation work will be needed as usual for this unique one off custom build​.

​New front hubs with bearings the extended studs will be pressed into.

I was going to use a modified Miata front suspension things have changed it was to wide. 

I still might have to do some minor wheel clearance for bumps

​The inner body  bracing is in and with it anchored to the table in 8 places it isn't moving so now I can start removing some of the old floor for the new main chassis rails. 

​This will be a real fun one of a kind driver.

The lower control arms had a formed pocket for the old coil springs to set on but converting to coil overs I had to remove part of the formed section and it looked tacky so I cut off the rest of the pocket and cut some rings to clean up the look.

Having a DRO adds to the quality work and fit.

​Pressed out the factory studs and pressed in the new longer studs.

​1959 Hillman Minx Convertible Restomod Project For Sale

The spring cap was cut then the spacer and cap are tack welded for fit check.

​Ah yes it has rubber under it.

​After that I ground the underside and top welds for a cleaner look.

​Inside of arch after some weld grinding.

I then welded slowly the ring to the control arm and radius ground the weld down for a cleaner look and now I have a clean looking lower control arm shock mount area.​ Now for the other side.

Time for a little more wheel clearance first I laid down a couple of 3/4 in wide masking tape for a guide Then I cut on the line with a 4 inch cut off wheel. Then pulled out the arch for the first look.

​This was a unibody car so the front frame rails & tubs were cut out need room for the 289 Ford Power. A new chassis and wheel tubs will be made to fit. With independent suspension on all 4 corners and coil over shocks.

​I did a little more adjusting now left and right match.

​Playing with  tire size ideas and the stance very important for the overall look.

​Ah the thunder some power plant, a whapping 54 chipmunks I mean hp when new & one of them wasn't doing  well so maybe 36 chipmunks if real lucky.

​I had to notch the crossmember to clear the steering U joint, I used some 1/8 wall tube angle cut.

​Another angle of the raised coil over shock towers after more welding now to make the filler pieces and grind them for a clean look..

​Quality custom & restoration sheet metal work & repair

The new highly custom refigured front crossmember needs just a little more clean up, then fit back under the car.

I rolled it out side to get a good look at the stance and ride height while working on the design of new full independent suspension chassis. This is just fun to look at and will be a super unique 289 powered 4 person convertible driver.

​The motor is complete and it will get a rebuild over time with some mods.

​Rear rubber shot, We Have The Meats.

​Inner wire reinforcement formed.

​The first round of weld grinding on the right side next some touch up welding, it's starting to look nice.

Steering U joint has clearance in the notched frame.

My original vision is coming to life and I can see maybe a custom grill in the works that would have a British look.

One thing that makes this a little tougher build is the front fenders and front upper and lower core supports are all welded together it is a full unibody car. I haven't decided weather I will rework the front fenders and core supports to be removable or have the frame and drive train unbolt together. More on that as the build progresses along and as usual constant changes to the build.

The left side is back together a much cleaner look for now.

All new bushings and sleeves for front and rear control arms from Energy Suspensions.

 At present ​I am building a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 by 3/16 wall tube chassis the extra wall thickness will make up for not using larger tubing due to ground clearance. I will fab up a removable IRS cradle using the Ford aluminum 8.8 center section with custom built control arms designed after the Miata and using the new 28 spline Miata style rear hubs, with narrowed CV axels. I am using the Miata style hubs because the Rota RB wheels only come in a 4 lug pattern. In my opinion these wheels were a natural fit for the retro look I am looking for. It will handle real well with independent suspension on all 4 corners, with the AFCO coil over shocks I can play with the ride height for the optimal look. With a reworked Ford 289 and a reworked AOD transmission  to run in automatic or shift mode it should be a real fun driver. I haven't decided on the fuel system yet. With any resto mod project things change at present this is my current plan and vison. 

Yes it is for sale as is present condition $ 29,000 and you can finish your way or buy it and we can discuss your vision on the build.

At present it's on Craigs List Seattle 59 Hillman Minx for sale and the price will change as I do work and buy more parts.