Quality custom & restoration sheet metal work & repair
Round 2 now the bondo appears about the bottom 2 feet of the whole car plus some on the upper rear panel above the trunk lid & very small sections on the roof hood & hood.
The steering wheel will need a redo, lots of cracks.
3 good coats of epoxy primer.
Three coats of epoxy primer were applyed.
The wood grain dash will be redone, plus some re chrome on interior parts. Its had plastic seat covers on it for years but regretfully the original seats covers are holey & tired they will be redone in original style cloth & padding.
I got a call from my upholstery people.
After the metal work on the rear fenders its minor filler time.
Both front fenders were braised to the body at the lower cowl section (not factory) they were cut loose, now I have welded & repaired the cut sections & ground clean.
Great attention to details is being attended to.
Then it was painted with 2 heavy coats of rust preventative paint, later it will all get coated with undercoat for lasting protection.
The body color is a very dark blue so the panels must be straight or it will look like the past shody short cut job.
Time to pour on the paint remover no sand or media blasting here I don't want to warp the original sheet metal.
Hanging parts for first round of epoxy primer.
The left fender had some rust thru that was just mudded over in previous repair.
Looking real straight we will know for sure with the first blocking.
The whole body has surface rust not removed before the previous repaint.
Had to strip the cowl top..
We always apply 3 heavy coats of epoxy primer alowing some dry time between coats.
All the glass will be replaced they had bb holes in 2 pieces plus typical age air seperations on the laminate & sanding scraches from previous repaint. Plus due to the quality of this restoration I couldn't leave the old tired glass hard & cracked rubber & felting.
First round of epoxy primer on the main body & hood my booth is real well lit no shadows here.
Santa and his 15 ft tall hot air balloon back on the shop roof for the 2019 Christmas season.
Getting the door jams all stripped.
They were welded up & ground clean.
I was over to the upholstery shop & the correct cloth pattern material for the seats finally came in. With fewer original restorations being done in cloth it is getting real tough to get this type of material & with the major supplier Labaron Bonney filing for chapter 7 Bankruptcy it will be even tougher to get these original cloths.
Epoxy prime time.
Both front fenders are looking real nice in the first round of epoxy primer.
The right inner fender & lip were also stripped.
Rear fender wells, chassis & floor pan from the firewall back were covered with epoxy under coating for years of durable protection.
Getting ready for epoxy primer.
Both rust thru areas repaired & ground clean.
Finish media blasting the core support & a couple of other parts more rust thru to be repaired.
In blowing the door jams off with the air hose the old repaint starter flaking off here is why just painted over old rusts again bad previous work.
Front chassis section and lower firewall was scrubbed clean then prepped for paint.
Working on the time consuming final strip down & derust so the new paint will last a life time. There was a lot of filler to make all the body panels match I will work on fixing that.
Air deflectors over the windwing windows.
The last of the detail stuff while mounted is done very minor filler will be needed.
The steering box was way beyond slop adjustment it goes out for a rebuild.
The front inner body panels have a lot of rust & will also need some patch work.
The headliner, visors & rear passenger pull straps along with door & rear panels will be redone as original.
After derusting where the upper belt line trim was rust thru pin holes appeared that were covered with filler, time to fix them.
Glaze coat on both front fenders & door pods reading for next round of epoxy primer.
Door pods & valance pieces, repaired filled & cleaned.
Guide coated a few days later.
Behind the dash was a mess from previous dissasembly then not put back together & missing .
You can see the rusted strip at the bottom that was after we removed the rusted thru upper layer here its in my media blast room.
The carb is back from the rebuild shop.
First round epoxy primer.
A small patch for the left side barley seen now plus some other minor small repairs were welded up they were previously filled with filler no metal. Then the welds were ground clean.
Stripping the primer on this car is a whole new experience when putting paint remover on it, it turns to a thick soup like substance & dry's quite fast & I have to squeegee it off, then wipe it down to clean up the residue with lacquer thinner a real mess and very time consuming & I will end up using about 40% more paint remover then normal for a vehicle this size.
Inside & out the front seat is being redone just like new out of the factory.
Working the stress out its starting to fit better. Lots to go still to make a stress less bolt on.
Another round of epoxy priming
This is a 2 family owned since new & has always been in a garage or carport it looks rock stock & original except the color but after a bad repaint moisture blisters all over, it was never put fully back together. I did a quick test strip on the trunk to see how deep & tough to strip.
The trunk lid lower edge was cracked & not parallel with the bottom lip that was fixed & ground clean.
Minor fill work on the rear lower filler panel & trunk lid.
The inner fenders bad paint & rust being removed.
95% of the first round of stripping is done.
Now its time to remove the fenders then a couple of areas I could not get to mounted can be addressed.
The front core support had a bunch of rust thru areas.
The rear lower filler panel & trunk lid also got 3 coats of epoxy primer.
With the dash out now the vent could be removed & paint prepped properlyalong with the wiper assemblys.
Rear fenders & hood ready for next round of primer
Another batch of panels with there second round of 3 coats of epoxy primer.
Stripping the door pods, rear fenders, front & rear valances and again more surface rust not removed in previous repaint.
First blocking after guide coat.
Just like the body all of these panels had rust under the paint, this will be cleaned up.
With the trunk lid removed it was discovered the rear drip rail had heavy surface rust which was removed
Due to stress from previous repairs not done correctly the left front fender bottom lip hung down below the running board almost 1/2 inch plus the fender was welded to the running board to keep it in place. I cut the weld then the fender poped out because the pushed in preasure was released.
Masking thing up.
From a distance the front fenders look good but in reality they need a lot of work due to highs & lows plus general short cut work the rear wheel arch had filler almost 1/2 inch thick to even things out.
Time to strip the old gal down.
After lots of hammer, dolly, shrink disk work the fender is getting real close, the rear fender arch lip has been raised, the highs spots have been shrunk down and the lower lip has been reworked to line up with the running board its starting to fit real well with no stress just some fine tuning to go.
Stripping the doors also no short cuts.
This is $2485.00 paint, clear, catalyst, reducer plus engine & trans correct colors.
Just about ready for the first prime.
2 of the front cowl panels after stripping the old paint & rust off.
The trunk lid gaps are off from side to side & it doesn't fit the body shape correctly high & low in places that will have to be addressed so it opens, closes & fits like it is supposed to.
98 % of the chrome and stainless & chrome is stripped off plus the door pods were removed & the rear fenders. I then masked it up getting ready to pour on the paint stripper, yes its smelly & messy but not harm full to the great original sheet metal.
The trunk drip rail is repaired
First round of epoxy primer.
Patch panels had to be made.
lastly the engine compartment will be freshened up, the old 6 cylinder flat head will be brought back to life.
The right fender had the same issue with the fender welded to the running board once I cut the weld the fender just popped out due to the pushed in stress. You can see in the last picture here how much the fender was stretched out filler covered up all the miss alingment.
The core support lower splash shield additional repair was done.
Underneath the upper belt line trim heavy surface rust covered with bondo & a few pin holes are starting to open up as I strip it down, notice the heavy rust in the belt line areas.
After getting the starter & generator back from rebuild to 12 volt I also had to elongate the generator mount bracket holes so the fan belt would line up properly its nice having a mill to do these type of things.
I did not want to create a disaster by welding up the pin holes so I just repaired them in lead, the body is real sound but some times you can create a bigger mess by welding. Now I just have some minor pitting that is now de rusted & that is easy to clean up. Its just to bad the previous repair person did not clean out the rust, short cuts will bite you in the ass every time. This will make a life time quality repair with no bubbling or blistering.
1946 Oldsmobile Coupe in for a freshen up restoration. Complete repaint & it needs to be stripped due to moisture blisters all over plus its the wrong color, get the motor running, new wiring harness, convert to 12 volt system, redo the complete interior including the wood grain on the dash & door trim. Some chrome plating & a few other clean up items.
The main body hood are fully blocked for the first time it looks real nice.
the fire wall will get cleaned & prepped for proper paint color.
Skim coating a few areas on the main body.
The rear fender wells & under carriage needed a good scrubbing & wire brushing no rust thru in the floor pans which is unusual a nice change for once.
No forgetting the cowl vent.
The visors will be redone as they are fadded & tired.
After sanding out the jams & firewall its time to re epoxy prime notice all the factory weld seams are left for a correct restoration.
Then epoxy primed.
The radiator support & center brace were seam sealed at the splash apron to prevent moisture from seeping in a creating more rust thru.
A few coats of high build epoxy primer
It was all painted with ceramic chassis black paint for durability.
Both rear fenders needed some additional repair & cracks welded.
Re epoxy primed.
The new cloth headliner is all sewn up along with some of the patterened welting, plus a lot more of the new interior supplys.
Both front fenders had previous minor front & side damage leaving oil can issues covered with filler.
Prepping more parts.
The right side engine splash shield needed repair.
There is a tab missing between the transmission slector & indicator that will need to be made.
Guide coat time for both front fenders.
The front sheet metal is removed.
By what I have seen from underneath & inside panels the sheet metal is super super nice original no rust bucket here to redo.
If you wish to discuss your current or up coming car or truck project please feel free to call Shop phone 425 433 0294 small projects to major turn key builds
The steering wheel is a disaster I will rebuild that.
Stripping the chesse old repaint & rust off.
The core support with radiator, motor & trans removed
More parts & pieces getting skim coated.
The trunk will get freshened up.
And the firewall just did not want to risk a paint problem
Mini running boards getting skim coat.
Next they had some minor fill work.
By taking the time now a minimal amount of filler was used no 1/2 inch thick plus in places .
Both running boards that go under the door pods were braze repaired sorta & rusty they were cleaned up & tig welded properly.